Day 27: Fansipan and Tram Ton Pass

The day started with pockets of sunshine so we decided to give Tram Ton Pass another go. It wasn’t long before thick cloud enveloped us, offering no chance to see anything other than the odd headlight of an oncoming scooter. Cold, damp and dejected, we turned back towards Sa Pa and decided to hit Silver Waterfall. Named because the water reflects silver from a distance. The waterfall was nice, and the market at the base offered traditional lunch options. We enjoyed traditional Sa Pa BBQ, including coal roasted sweet potato, bamboo rice and pork skewers. The cost? $3.80 for the two of us.

After lunch we took the cable car to the top of Mount Fansipan. At 6,292 meters long and 1410 meters high, this cable car ride is truly spectacular. First crossing the Muong Hoa Valley before rising above the Hoàng Liên Son Mountain range, on a clear day you are offered majestic views of the valley before a thrilling ride, scraping along the mountainside. Although Mount Fansipan itself was hidden in cloud, we enjoyed stunning views of the valley far below us.

Once at the base of Fansipan again the valley had cleared up considerably. Tram Ton Pass looked like it might be worth another go…

Sure enough we had incredible views of the valley as we rode back towards the pass. We made it all the way to the viewpoint, about 14 km from Sa Pa, before we were once again lost to the cloud. It was well worth the trip as we finally had the pleasure of snaking our way down from the highest mountain pass in Vietnam with clear views and dry pavement. Fun!!

Having finally accomplished what we came to Sa Pa to enjoy, we decided to make this our last night in Sa Pa before continuing on our motorcycle adventure. This meant dinner had to include more of the Sa Pa dishes that can only be found here. Hanged Armpit pork in particular was something we hadn’t yet enjoyed. Armpit pigs are small pigs that roam freely in the valley around Sa Pa. After catching one, you must hold it tightly under your armpits to carry it to the local market to sell. The entire pig is cooked over an open fire until the skin is crispy and the meat is juicy. Served with a delicious dipping sauce, it is definitely a treat to enjoy at least once in Sa Pa. We chose Nha Hang Co Lich, a few doors down from Sa Pa Sisters. Always busy with locals and always friendly when we walk past. It didn’t disappoint. Taro cakes, sweet corn cakes, oyster mushrooms, armpit pork, zucchini, spinach, pork skewers and bamboo sticky rice with peanuts. Topped off with a Hanoi beer, delightful!

Armpit porkArmpit PorkTop of FansipanSilver WaterfallSa Pa BBQ

Tram Ton Pass

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