Woke up to a beautiful blue sky day. Our first blue sky in Vietnam. It was going to be an awesome day.
First things first. Check out Mount Fansipan. We rode the couple of km’s to the base of Mount Fansipan to admire the long ridge line that is IndoChina’s highest mountain. Covered in lush, green jungle to its tip, it was nothing like the jagged rock of the Canadian Rockies. The valley bellow looked pristine. You couldn’t pick a better day for the next portion of our ride.
Today’s ride would take us North to Lao Cai, a border city with China about 38 km / 1 hour ride away. From here we would ride QL4D even further North to Muong Khương, a French outpost in 1949 and a non existent stop for tourists, hard to find on any map unless you know of its existence.
The ride out of Sa Pa and down into the valley below was wonderful. Ever winding, paved road with views across the valley to the waterfalls and rice paddies that climbed down the mountain face as if as one. At the bottom of the valley, the city of Lao Cai which borders China. A visit to the border gate to peer across into China was a somber reminder of our time in China. Decrepit, half built cement apartment buildings and lifeless streets. A stark contrast to the modern, colourful and lively city of Lao Cai, only a few hundred feet away, and across a narrow river.
Lunch was at Nhan Phuc Vu Khach Doan, chosen for its proximity to our turn towards Muong Khương and for its parking on the sidewalk in front of the restaurant. Shawn had beef Pho. I had a platter of whatever they were cooking up – potato, tofu, spinach, roasted peanuts, broth, rice and pork. Meant to be a meal for two, I devoured it all. It was delicious. Likely the best road side restaurant we’ve hit.
After lunch it was on to Muong Khương. Having little to no information on this town, we weren’t entirely sure what was in store for us.
What was in store was the best day of riding we’ve had in Vietnam and some of the most incredible views we’ve had in our life. Riding along a ridge line at 1,000 meters, past pineapple plantations and waterfalls, the scenery was outstanding. Unlike Fansipan, a single, long ridge line, the mountains surrounding Muong Khuong resemble the humps of a camel.
Arriving in Muong Khuong at 2:00 pm there was only one thing to do. Drop off our bags at the first half decent looking Nha Nghi (guesthouse), and keep riding.
After selecting Nha Nghi 386 for its parking (yes, parking Groot and Rambo indoors comes before a bathroom that has been cleaned this century), off we went. We found a road that seemed to head towards China, on the opposite side of the valley we rode in on. The views were even more incredible, winding up and down over mountain tops, through never ending banana plantations. It wasn’t long before the sun was setting and we turned back. As we drove back through the villages of banana farmers, people yelled “Hello” and waved. In one such village, a group of a dozen or so teenaged boys watched as we approached. They were on our left. As Shawn drove past, three massive, male water buffalo came charging down an 8 foot slope from the right, and onto the road in front of me. In the instant I saw them crash onto the road, they turned on me and came racing forwards. I slammed on the breaks, with three very large, horned beasts crashing past me. As I stood on the road wondering what just happened, I saw the stunned look on the faces of the teenagers. I gave them my best “Xin Chao” to much laughter in return. I caught up to Shawn who had watched with dread in his rear view mirror. He had seen the massive animals charging down the slope out of his peripheral vision, and had cringed as they thundered onto the road. “I thought we were having buffalo for dinner?” he grinned with relief. “I thought the buffalo were having Christine for dinner”.
With the sun setting and the weather quickly cooling off, it was dinner time.
We found a bakery close to our Guesthouse, Mai Danh Bakery. In a small, glass box filled with condensation, we thought we could see steamed buns. Sure enough a young girl came over, popped the door open, and grabbed a large, fluffy bun. With a smile she said “hello” and scurried away. We ordered one. A light, sweet bun, filled with minced pork, noodles and quail eggs. Incredible. Sweet and savoury, light yet satisfying. We ordered two more. At 10,000 dong each, our cheapest dinner to date.
After dinner it was time for a walk. Shawn wanted some sandals to wear in hotel rooms to protect his feet from the filth of never washed bathroom floors. He had another motive to buy cheap sandals. My dad started a family competition a few years ago to find the cheapest sandals you could. Pretty sure Shawn is the winner with his 30,000 dong sandals.
Live Life Epic 