Day 12 – Motorcycling Laos – Wow!

Wow! Motorcycling Laos is incredible. Today was by far the most stunning and incredible riding we have done so far in SE Asia. Maybe the fact it was our first blue sky helped!

Started our day in Sam Neua at “Many Coffees” restaurant. A great place to get a proper cup of coffee, eggs and bread with butter and jam. We had read that Sam Neua had plenty of accommodation, but that quality restaurants were lacking. This has recently changed as we were presented with multiple good options for dinner and breakfast – all of which looked new.

Then the real fun began. On the road for a leisurely 10:15 am under beautiful blue skies that made the jungle colours pop. Deep hunter greens and bright greens were dotted with vibrant yellow flowers. The perfume on the air alternated between a light floral scent, to a strong sweet scent as the altitude quickly changed through the steep valley roads.

A motorcyclist’s paradise. The windiest roads you can imagine, up and down lush valley after lush valley. Cool air suddenly becoming hot, stifling air, then cool again as you snake your way to the next mountain crest. Small towns with waving children coming and going, as you keep winding you way through yet another amazing panorama. Wow!

Exactly 35 km out of Sam Neua we had our first stop. Watch for a small sign marking “Saleui Waterfall”. Definitely worth the 30 minutes to get off the bikes and stretch your legs by climbing the steep but short path to the top of the Tad Saleui falls.

The falls aren’t the only attraction in the Sam Neua area. An under rated tourist destination to date, this area will likely boom in the near future for all it has to offer. Besides the stunning scenery and fun roads for two wheelers, ecotourism in Nam Et-Phou Louey National Protected area is growing. The last wild tigers in Laos can be found here, as well as leopard, clouded leopard, golden cat, Asian black bears and sun bears. Try the Nam Nern night safari or a multi day trek (although seeing any wildlife on these tours is rare). There is also the “Plain of Jars” at Phonsavan and the surrounding Ka waterfall and Tham Xang Cave. For a more off the beaten track experience, there is the Hintang Archeological Park and many hot springs to explore!

After an exhausting day of only 155 km over a 5.5 hour period (our average speed was no more than 40 km/hr for most of the day due to the crazy, twisty roads, a stop to hand out candy to some of the local children and some road construction), we checked into the Dokkhoun Guest House in Muang Hiam and dinner at Tontavanh Restaurant with a lovely couple, he from Germany and she from London. After many drinks with our new friends Wolfram and Katarina, it’s off to plan a route for tomorrow’s adventure!