Day 19: Same Same, but Different

The Plan

Started off at Q Bar for breakfast where we learned a new phrase from Sami (the charismatic young owner), which I quite like. “Relax Lao style, not Gangnam style”. This is definitely the Lao attitude. They go about their day in a relaxed, easy way.

Today we have decided to tackle more off-road fun. We are going to take the short cut to Muang Khua along the river. Sami assures us this road would be slightly faster than the longer paved way, and would offer us more views and more fun. This might impact our ability to cross the border today, but if it’s more fun….

The Children

We had read in a blog before coming to Lao to bring small candy for the children in the villages. After stopping to give candy early on in our trip, we both felt there was something wrong with this. Although we loved to see the children happy – our instincts told us that what we were doing was selfish and not helping in any way. The children seemed frightened of us. Yesterday we chose to buy the village children milk, with permission from the adults. The children were just as delighted, and our sense of guilt was lessened.

We finally found a local with good enough English, Sami, who agreed this approach was better. There is no access to dental care here, and the teeth of the adults and children are noticeably rotting. We agreed that providing food with nutritional value was better than candy. We also all agreed it wasn’t good for the local children to get used to receiving candy from strangers. Pencils, notebooks and healthy snacks given with permission from adults and in the presence of adults is the way to go.

Same Same, but Different

There is a popular saying in Vietnam and Lao. “Same, Same, but Different”. This catchy phrase is used to describe things to tourists (for example pigs brain and tofu are “same, same, but different”) and has even made its way onto souvenir t-shirts.

Today was our SSBD. The plan was to take the short cut road to Muang Khua, with hopefully enough time to cross the border into Vietnam at Dien Bien Phu. At first this plan seemed promising. The road was in great shape, wide and had hardly any traffic at all. It seemed too good to be true, and google maps showed us ever so slightly off course. Hmm, continue on or turn back? Being the responsible adults we are, we turned back to the previous y intersection, only 7 km back or so. After getting to this intersection we were fairly certain we had been going the right way. The alternative road was nothing more than a dirt track. It was busy, but hardly seemed like the new road we were looking for. To be even further sure we asked a trucker, stopped at the intersection. He had no idea what we wanted, so off we went in the same direction as we had been going.

After 30 mins or so we checked again. We still showed no where close to a road on google maps. But this had to be it! A beautiful road, twisting along the river. This was definitely going to lead somewhere!

After another 15 minutes we arrived at a gateway arched across the highway guest announcing “China Power”. Hmmm, this must be that new, big dam the locals had mentioned. We drive a little further to a security checkpoint, and that is where this adventure ended. There was no way the guard was going to let us pass, not even for a brief glimpse of the new dam. C’est la vie. It must have been the last intersection, 22 km back.

Back we head to the intersection we had already double backed to once before. This time instead of a trucker, we find some local young men partaking in a lunchtime Lao beer. We had left Nong Khiaw at 10:30 am and it was now 1:00 pm. We confirmed that we had gone the wrong direction and that the dirt track was the way to go. We had the sandwich Sami had made us, and took off on the road to Muang Khua!

It wasn’t long before we reached another intersection. Again, one direction looked to be in better shape. This must be it! After 10 mins on this new track something seemed wrong. For a major road, this was in rough shape. Fun, sure, but at this rate we weren’t going to make it to the border. We decided to learn from previous mistakes and ask the way. Again we had taken the wrong turn. Back we go.

Alright – now we got it! Up the sketchy dirt track to the left. No problem.

After the first hill, problem. The dirt track has gaping ruts cut deep into it from the rainy season that just ended. Groot and I give’r, but get stuck in a deep rut and over we go. I get trapped under the bike, but two young men on a scooter who had decided this road was shit and were turning back, ran over to lift Groot off me. Luckily bike and rider were fine, besides the exhaust burning a hole into my pants and leg. I loved those pants!

It was now 2:30 pm. With the road in this condition, the 80 km or so to Muang Khua were going to take at least 4 hrs. It was too late to attempt it now, as it’s dark by 5:30. So we double backed to our “same same” intersection for the third time, and this time back to Nong Khiaw.

Upon our return, Sami greeted us with a big smile. “What happened, why are you back?”. I told him the truth. For the last 20 km, all I could think about was getting my hands on one of Q Bars famous passion fruit Lao Lao whiskey shots.

“I missed you Sami, and was craving your famous Lao Lao whiskey!”

It was good to be home.

Checked into the Vongmany Guesthouse (decent place and clean) and after a shower, headed off for happy hour (two for one whiskey) and Lao BBQ at Q Bar.Same same as yesterday. But different.