Day 38: Is it Beach Thirty yet?

Breakfast was just as disappointing as the rest of Saigon Ban Gioc. The eggs were the worst we have eaten in 38 days. Cooked in something that had last cooked fish, they were impossible to choke back. The service was just as awful as the previous evening. I considered providing feedback to the hotel, but it was apparent that management cared as little as the rest of the staff.

Pit stop in Quảng Uyen for an oil change before continuing on in the bone chilling cold to Cao Bang for lunch. We found a rice house full of men. It wasn’t long before these very inebriated gentlemen insisted we join them for a shot of rice wine. I politely declined. The man offering became angry and insisted again. I politely refused again. I could see I was offending him, but I don’t drink and drive. I was causing him deep embarrassment in front of his friends, but I was unwavering. The fourth time my “no thank you” was firm. He was irate at this insult. To save face, my husband quickly shook the mans hand and said he would be honoured to join the man in one drink. I took the cue and shook the mans hand with my other arm across my chest and under the arm being shaken. A sign of great respect. This seemed to calm the man and he had a drink with Shawn. After some awkward chit chat with the very drunk man and his equally drunk friends they left us alone and we quickly paid the bill and left.

Our original route had us going the “long way” to Ba Be National park, via Lang Son and Bac Son. This route would take another 3-4 days before arriving in Ba Be National park. However the detour to Lao had put us behind schedule and we were growing tired of Vietnam. We were ready to ditch the down jackets and endless noodle soup for a change in scenery and some warm weather. We decided to make a beeline to Ba Be National park, arriving in Cho Ra at 4:30 pm. A 218 km day on easy, fast moving freeways. There was some truck traffic, but they were either slow and thus easy to pass, or hammering along at maniacal speeds, making them amusing to follow. They cleared a path for us while leaving a wake of destruction for oncoming traffic. The most interesting part of the drive was a bull fight on the side of the road. Two large bulls in a heated wrestling match, with scooters scattered about as people hurriedly parked to watch the show.

Checked into the pleasant and clean Khach San Hoa Sim Hotel (400,000 VND), overlooking a small market across the street. With large rooms, good wifi and a balcony, it already far surpassed the overly priced Saigon Ban Gioc.

Dinner was a picnic in our room. Tuna sandwiches with laughing cow cheese, tomato and red pepper. Dessert was mango and yoghurt. No mo Pho!